The Emerald
A ravishing green beryl jewel, joining the "big three" as a timeless symbol of rebirth and luxury.
Overview
Known for its ravishing green hue, the emerald is a premier variety of the mineral beryl, colored by trace amounts of chromium and vanadium. Joining rubies and sapphires to form "the big three" of colored stones, its name derives from the ancient Persian word for green, translated to Latin as “smaragdus”.
While ancient civilizations across Africa, Asia, and South America treasured them (with Zimbabwe holding the oldest emeralds and Colombia renowned for its deep green variety), naturally flawless emeralds are extremely rare. In fact, stones with minute flaws are often preferred as proof of authenticity. Clarity enhancements using specialized oils are a common, accepted industry standard.
Symbolism
As the gorgeous birthstone for May, the emerald is a powerful symbol of rebirth, foresight, good fortune, and youth. Green is the most calming color on the color wheel, and emeralds have historically been praised for offering relief from eye strain and stress.
From Cleopatra adoring them in ancient Egypt to the Incas using them in religious ceremonies for over 500 years, emeralds have a legendary history. They were famously associated with Venus, the Greek goddess of love, and have graced iconic royal jewelry pieces, such as the grand necklace of Queen Marie Jose of Italy.
Physical Properties & Quality
Hardness & Strength
While boasting a Mohs hardness rating of 7.5 to 8, emeralds are more fragile than other forms of beryl due to their naturally included and flawed formation. They require careful handling and protection from extreme temperature changes or rough impacts.
Treatment
Natural emeralds are more heavily included than almost any other gemstone. To improve clarity and stability, traditional treatments involve using pure cedar oil under heat and pressure to fill tiny surface-breaking fractures. Regular re-oiling may be needed to maintain peak luster.
Color & Clarity
Bluish-green to deep green hues with vivid saturation are the most preferred. Inclusions are universally expected and often described as garden-like or mossy (known as ‘jardin’). While minor inclusions are accepted, they must not severely compromise the stone's transparency.
Cut & Carat Weight
The iconic 'emerald cut' (a step-cut with truncated corners) was specifically invented for this gemstone to protect it from mechanical strain and chipping while maximizing its rich color and tone. Sizes range from tiny accents to prominent center stones of 1 to 5 carats.
Emerald Grading System
Top 1%
In terms of quality, these represent the top 1% available. They exhibit a truly exceptional rich green hue, are only slightly included, and maintain high brilliance.
Top 10%
Awarded to the top 10% of the lot, these emeralds radiate a rich, beautiful medium green color and feature moderate, natural garden-like inclusions.
Top 33%
This category features the top 33% of emeralds on the market, characterized by a medium green hue and heavier internal inclusions.
Top 75%
This entry-level category comprises the top 75% of available emeralds that lean darker in green and take on a more opaque appearance.
Emerald Care Instructions
Because emeralds have fair to good toughness and are often oil-treated, they require much more mindful care than a ruby or sapphire. Follow these guidelines to keep your emerald dazzling:
- Avoid Harsh Chemicals: Never allow your emeralds to come into contact with harsh washing soaps, detergents, acetone, or abrasive household cleaners.
- Gentle Washing: Clean gently using a soft toothbrush with diluted mild soap. Carefully brush the underside to remove grease, rinse with lukewarm water, and pat dry.
- No Machine Cleaners: Never use ultrasonic cleaners, steam cleaners, or chemical jewelry dips, as they can strip out the clarity-enhancing oils and cause irreparable damage.
- Protect From Heat: Exposure to high heat, sudden temperature shifts, or prolonged direct sunlight must be completely avoided.
- Wear With Caution: Take off your emerald jewelry when engaging in any rigorous activity or heavy physical labor that might accidentally scratch or knock the stone.
- Professional Maintenance: Clean them sparingly (only a few times a year) and consider having your emerald professionally inspected and re-oiled by a trusted jeweler after years of wear.